By Kathy Hughes

Contributing Writer

  “I’ve switched to almond milk,” announced my brother, clearly feeling virtuous about his choice. “Just how do you milk an almond?” I asked, defensively. Clearly, this was another episode of the ongoing feud engaging my much younger brother attempting to assert his superiority in all things, but especially nutrition.

I had to investigate, just what is almond milk, and how is it made? Is it truly a superior nutritious choice over dairy milk? The range of articles I found is reflected in the titles: “10 Amazing Benefits of Almond Milk” to “Lay off the almond milk, you ignorant hipsters.” Both assertions can’t be right, can they?

Since 2013, almond milk has out sold all other dairy milk alternatives (from here on, “milk” used alone will refer to dairy milk,) including soy, rice, hemp and coconut. Just what is it? Almond milk is basically, two ingredients, filtered water and pulverized almonds. Some brands have added sweeteners.

Surprisingly, almond milk is not a recent creation, and has been around since the Middle Ages, particularly, though not exclusively, in the Middle East. It was particularly useful as a milk substitute during Lent and Ramadan, as shown in recipes of the time. One such specialty is harireh badam, a popular dessert originating in Persia.

Almond milk is trumpeted by vegans, the lactose intolerant and sustainable agriculture advocates as a nutritious and delicious milk substitute. The opponents claim it is a highly processed, industrial product loaded with additives and of little natural nutritional value.

Most likely due to all the processing involved, and the heavy dilution with water, almond milk – as opposed to almonds – is deficient in protein, particularly when compared to milk: almond milk contains less than 2 grams of protein compared to nearly 8 grams of protein for cow’s milk. On the other hand, almond milk is significantly lower in calories than whole milk by about 100 calories. Most significantly, almond milk contains none of the essential vitamin B12 which is plentiful in milk.

The calcium found in almond milk is an additive, augmenting its standing as an industrial food when compared to the naturally abundant calcium in milk. Of course, Vitamin D occurs as an additive in both.

One now obvious caution here, almond milk should not be given to infants or children under two, basically due to the absence of B12, but other nutrients as well.

For this and other reasons, some contend that the term “milk” should not be permitted with a beverage which is not milk in any sense of the word, nor should it be colored white, which may mislead the uninformed to serve it to small children.

The health benefits naturally occurring in whole almonds — protein, fiber, vitamin E, and healthy oils — do not apply to almond milk, which is mostly water, anyway. As for sustainability, in addition to the heavy dilution of water during its manufacture, it takes one gallon of water to grow each single almond. There can be no argument for sustainability with regard to almond milk.

In conclusion, almond milk is not actually harmful, but, depending on your reason for drinking it, you may be misled into believing it is a nutritious substitute for milk. It is lower in calories and saturated fat, as well as not containing lactose, to which many are intolerant. It does not provide the same nutrients as whole almonds, or milk by comparison. Almond milk is not a “natural” food, although it may be organic.

If you enjoy almond milk, by all means indulge in it, but do not give it to babies (one is given to wonder about nut allergens, which should be avoided with young children).

Likewise, low fat dairy milk is a perfectly fine dietary element for those who prefer it, and carries a significant nutritional punch.